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A Walk Along the Western Front

6 November 2023

Every year on 11 November, huge crowds gather under the Menin Gate in Ypres to hear the Last Post played in memory of those who died in the First World War. But most people do not stray far beyond the walls of the ancient Flemish town. If they did, they would find an astonishing number of cemeteries

Ypres Marches On

28 September 2022

On a visit to the Flemish city of Ypres, Derek Blyth discovers a museum dedicated to the horror of war, a beer brewed in an underground fortification and a nightly ceremony that might go on for ever.

A Gem for Enthusiasts: ‘The Land Between the Languages’ by Stefan Zweig

23 May 2022

Austrian Jewish writer Stefan Zweig (1881-1942) liked to visit Belgium and did so frequently. His reportages on those visits have now been translated into Dutch and collected into a small, beautifully illustrated volume. The stories vary greatly in quality, revealing Zweig’s evolution as a writer,

The Long Farewell

12 November 2020

There is nothing like this anywhere in the world. Every evening just before 8pm, the traffic is halted on Menenstraat in the West Flemish city Ypres. A group of local volunteer firemen then raise their bugles to play the Last Post below the Menin Gate war memorial.

The Lost Cemeteries of 1917

20 January 2020

Anyone who wants to see the extent of the horror of the First World War in Flanders should visit the enormous Tyne Cot Cemetery. Yet the small cemeteries in and around Ypres may offer a more unique way of understanding the war.

1917, a Crucial Year in Flanders Fields

8 January 2020

If we consider the history of the First World War from the perspective of its enduring legacy, we see that 1917 was certainly a crucial year, if not the most crucial year of all. After almost three years of heavy fighting, Europe was already significantly weakened and the new future world powers wer

‘You Know Where Your Grave Is, Don’t You?’

20 March 2019

In recent years, hundreds of thousands of people have visited the scars left by the First World War along the French-Belgian Front. More than ever before, in fact. But war tourism is not a new phenomenon. In the spring of 1919, as the first inhabitants of the devastated border area returned, tourist

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